Concrete consists of a mix of Portland cement (heated limestone & Clay), fly ash (coal combustion residuals), slag cement (residual material from molten iron), silica fume (by-product of the silicon/metal alloy industry), water and different size aggregates.

The purpose of cutting concrete is to reduce the stresses of the curing process and to control the fracturing of the concrete into the cuts for aesthetic purposes. Cuts are typically 20-30% depth at the most to prevent cutting into the steel.

Steel is used to strengthen the entire body of the concrete area and connecting it as one. Steel connects older existing concrete to new concrete. It also helps prevent too much movement and separation between joints and cuts.

Expansion joint is used as both a bond breaker against existing concrete, wood, steel, or plastics. Most used as a preventative measure when new concrete will be placed between 2 existing concrete structures and expansion of the new concrete will stress both the old and new causing stress cracking and damage to both.

Cement begins to set once water is added due to the chemical reaction of its additives. Depending on depth of the concrete, typically flat work (driveways, patios, pads, sidewalk etc.…) are between 4-6” in depth, at which point the average curing time assuming the weather has been more then 50 degrees Fahrenheit (50-70 F considered most ideal temperature for curing concrete) is 24-72hrs for foot traffic and a minimum of a week for machines and vehicles. Ideally waiting the full 28 days for a full depth cure is encouraged.

We suggest watering (soaking) your concrete after 8 hrs with a very light mist if the temperature reaches over 75 degrees during the day. This allows the concrete to remain at the most ideal temperature for curing and avoids stress racking due to curing too rapidly. Typically, in the summer months we suggest doing this for a week.

We always recommend sealing your concrete, especially for driveways, high foot traffic areas or anywhere you might apply salt during the winter. Sealing isn’t always full proof, so in that case here’s several different ways to tackle stains. #1 Power washer always works well (please make sure not to over pressurized one specific area since it can cause burning of the surface and finish) #2 Liquide dish soap, powdered laundry soap, bleach, vinegar, baking soda. Any of these (not mixed) added to dampened concrete and let sit for 10-15mins then scrubbed with a rigid bristle brush/broom or scrub pad. Don’t use SOS pads or wire brushes because they tend to add to the stain. #3 Worst case if the above has been attempted, heavy duty degreasers and cleaners can work as well. CLR, Simple Green or Spray Nine are great. **Please be sure to follow the directions on the above products and use appropriate protective equipment in a well-ventilated area**

There are many “concrete friendly” salts you can purchase at local retailers. Typically, they are a type of (rock salt). Not always pet friendly. If this is used, please be sure to first shovel before applying evenly. Once the weather has cleared and dried, sweep and discard of the standing salt to prevent erosion and staining. Calcium Chloride is a little more expensive but much less harmful to concrete. It works quicker and in colder conditions, however, please don’t over apply because it can cause serious damage to your lawn once it runs off if there’s too much. Magnesium Chloride Though it’s a little more expensive than calcium chloride, it’s both Pet and environmentally friendly. Less likely to damage concrete or your lawn. It melts less affectively than calcium chloride but better then rock salt. Calcium Magnesium Acetate The most expensive but the safest for the environment and for pets. Will not damage the concrete and nearly as effective as calcium chloride. These products mentioned are available at your locale retailers like Home Depot, Canadian Tire, Rona, Lowes as well as Amazon. **Please be sure to follow the directions on the product packaging and use appropriate protective equipment**